A Thread in the Right Direction; Gen Z’s Surge towards Sustainable Fashion ft. Lilyella the Label

(Expression 2024 Collection, Durham University Charity Fashion Show)

From teaching stitches on the playground to crocheting in Jimmys’, one could argue that Lilyella the Label started young. Known for its meticulous stitching and fabulous designs you can find it worn on celebrities like Sabrina Bahsoon (or tube girl if you’re as chronically on the app as I am) or on models throughout Durham University’s various charity fashion shows.  And as I sit down to discuss it all, my laptop filled to the brim with notes, the budding fashion designer brings my attention to something else: slow fashion. As stitched on many of the Label’s iconic designs ‘slow fashion’ refers to the intentional designing, manufacturing and buying of more sustainable clothing.

“You can't do sewing and not think about sustainability.” 

Now a designer and a teacher of sustainability at her local studio, Lilyella goes on to explain:

“If the only way for me to do fashion and design was to draw something on a screen, and send it halfway across the world to be manufactured, I would quit fashion, as that’s not my dream – I need to be hands on, that’s my favourite part.”

And the truth hits hard - Lilyella and many young designers like her have a point, how can we possibly think about fashion before considering the carbon emissions, the sweatshops and waste all accumulated for say one shirt you could thrift, upcycle or borrow from a friend instead. With Shein and Temu hauls dominating our social media feeds (and perhaps our lives) as well as the already peaking rise of the fast fashion industry estimated at £10.9 billion in 2025, we have to ask – is churning out trendy styles destroying our future?

According to a recent education study in the Ellen MacArthur Foundation an estimated 85% of textiles discarded each year go to landfills or incinerators, amounting to about 92 million tons, according to the same study the average consumer buys 60% more garments than they did 20 years ago but keeps them for half as long. Yet despite all these facts the fast fashion industry continues to not only survive but thrive in our climate. The appeal of cost effective clothing as well as the onslaught of emerging new trends which with them bring a whole new wardrobe demand a quicker turnover rate for clothes we might have once kept for years - the accessibility of fast fashion works in its favour despite the harm.

The truth of the matter is that while the mass market is aware of sustainable fashion as a concept, they’re spared from its reality. When the average shopper walks through retailers like H&M they don’t see pictures of the sweatshops where the clothes are made, or the wage those workers earn when they pick up new top or a nice skirt, they see only the clear aesthetic writing of that familiar red against the backdrop of white bright – and more importantly the new trends on the tables surrounding it. Other retailers like Zara are experts in cultivating a chic atmosphere and timely jumping on the trends every season, where the reality highlighted by a Public Eye article shows Zara’s roughly 1,000 cargo flights per year, contributing significant CO₂ despite its dedication towards sustainability as showcased through its ‘Join Life’ collection.

Notably, and crucially, the intention is there. A 2021 fashion finest survey highlighted 79% of Gen Z say sustainable fashion is important, and 68% want clothes made to high ethical standards. More recent studies such as McKinsey & Business of Fashion report (2022) showed that 60% of Gen Z shoppers actively seek out brands that align with their values, including environmental responsibility, while First Insight and The Wharton School (2023), 73% of Gen Z consumers are willing to pay more for sustainable products. Why is then that fast fashion still leads the industry when it comes to actual purchases? BCG x Vogue Business study highlighted that only around 35% consistently act on their sustainability values when shopping for fashion - indicating an intent-action gap.

While the intention to live more sustainably continues to grow as Lilyella highlights “there’s definitely more sustainability awareness with social media, it's kind of hard to escape, there's infographics left and right!” The steps taken towards more sustainable living, specifically in fashion is still a work in progress.

Let’s say a Gen Z consumer plans to attend a festival, being so excited for this festival they plan a new outfit, only they need a white top to complete this look. Already this consumer is more likely to purchase a top from a retailer, than to borrow from a friend or buy through second hand apps like Depop or Vinted. This is our first issue: the average consumer is more primed to simply purchase new items rather than looking at alternatives. Then when shopping for the top itself a Gen Z consumer might walk into more sustainable retailers such as Reformation, Aritzia and & Other Stories where white tops are priced at around 90 – 100 pounds and then be more likely to purchase from fast fashion retailers such as H&M, Zara and New Look where white tops are priced more affordably at 10 – 35 pounds. This is the second issue, where upfront costs are higher, consumers tend to prioritise price over sustainability. After this festival comes our third problem, once a piece of clothing is used for its intended purpose or used only a handful of times, it tends to end up unused in the back of our wardrobes and eventually makes it way a landfill.

“My opinion regarding fast fashion is as so: if you cherish and love a piece, and wear it to death, repair it, and keep it in use or circulation as long as you can – then its got my tick of approval. I won’t hate on someone for buying a shirt from Zara, H&M but there are so many more sustainable ways to acquire fast fashion Sustainability is wearing the clothing you have in your closet; as my favourite mantra goes: "The most sustainable thing is something you already have’”.

As a teacher of sustainability, Lilyella is passionate about educating her students on more sustainable ways of living.

“It’s a lot easier than you think to lead a sustainable life – as long as you’re trying. One thing I’m careful about with my students is not fostering eco-anxiety, because if you focus too much on the negative (‘this behaviour is BAD’; ‘you shouldn’t do this’), you’ll never learn what you can do instead, and it takes away from the positive changes and more sustainable alternatives that you can actually implement. Additionally, if you over-analyse every single thing you could be doing, you will never live your life freely”.

In a world where fast fashion is accessible and sustainable clothing is harder to access, the ‘intent – action’ gap becomes understandable. Of course, given the choice the majority of the consumer market would purchase more high quality, sustainable pieces free from the tags of sweatshops, low wages and Co2 emissions, but the reality is that only a small percentage can choose to do so. Luckily there are other ways to live more sustainably;

“Gift your friends something you don’t wear anymore, trade clothing, maybe even swap for a month!”

Clothes swaps, thrifts shops and online markets like Depop or Vinted are becoming more popular alternatives among Gen Z, as online trends continue to grow (and probably always will) consumers look for more cost effective and sustainable ways to participate.

“People are starting to come around to the beauty of visible mending, and the lovely handmade touches that beginner sewists can have when repairing clothing for the first time. I truly encourage anyone to start handsewing – search ‘whip stitch’ on YouTube and bam, you’re a sewist! We need to be more okay with people being bad at sewing, but still trying! Cuz they’re being more sustainable at the end of the day!” Lilyella adds.

The lack of awareness surrounding consumer alternatives like sewing your own clothes used to mean that the average consumer was more likely to purchase from fast fashion brands, now Gen Z is getting more creative. Especially considering the lack of transparency that comes with both inexpensive and expensive brands regarding sustainability. Lilyella recommends the brand sustainability checker ‘Good On You’ to search brand names and find out their environmental impact, and transparency regarding paying garment workers a living wage.

While not perfect, Gen Z’s commitment to trying to live more sustainable lives already makes a huge impact. Launched in 2008 Vinted has accumulated around 105 million registered users across 20+ countries by 2024 according StartUpBooted, while Depop follows with 30 million registered users according to its own statistics. Hashtags like #capsulewardrobestyle which gained popularity on TikTok in late 2023 suggest a growing interest in high quality, sustainable pieces with a total of 7.7k posts and roughly 176.8 million views.

As awareness grows surrounding sustainability, consumers become more aware of alternatives and more aware of the choices they make moving forward. As Lilyella says ‘the most sustainable thing you can do is wear clothes you already have, and the best thing you can do is just try’. When it comes to sustainable fashion, Gen Z is changing the conversation, one garment at a time.

Lilyella Stevens now works at Little Hands Design in Hampstead, a Zero - Waste arts charity based in Hampstead that incorporates sustainability in everything they do. When Lilyella’s not teaching sustainability through sewing, crochet and mixed fibre arts, she’s passionate about historical fashion and costume, specifically corsetry, traditional sewing techniques and of course her brand, Lilyella the Label.

Does Sex Still Sell? Sydney Sweeney and other Controversies

Scrolling through my For You Page a mere few days ago, I come across a skit. A girl, dressed in baggy jeans, starring faint-lidded at the camera, repeats, “my jeans are blue,” her words faint and slurred. This mock of Sydney Sweeney in the new American Eagle ad is, unfortunately, pretty accurate. The campaign featured the Euphoria actor in a slew of new ads, the most controversial of which featured Sydney on a couch, buttoning up her jeans, squirming as the camera closes in, reciting, “Genes are passed down from parents to offspring, often determining traits like hair color, personality, and even eye color. My genes are blue.” A closing male voice exclaims, “Sydney Sweeney has great jeans!” The internet lit on fire.

The original concept behind the ad was a tribute to Brooke Shields’ American Eagle ad in the ’80s, where she struggles on the floor as she puts her jeans on, talking about biology, making a playful pun on the words “jeans” and “genes.” While Shields was under fire for the ad due to her age—only being 15 at the time—Sydney Sweeney and the American Eagle company are being called out for taking the pun too far. A white, blonde-haired, blue-eyed woman sending the message that “her genes are great” rings tone-deaf to many consumers in this current political climate, with some fans quickly turning on Sweeney and the company, adamant that their eugenic-style messaging was intentional.

Sweeney, still under fire from her recent collaboration with Dr. Squatch titled “Sydney’s Bathwater Bliss,” sold a line of soaps claiming to feature some of Sydney’s bathwater, similarly divided the internet. While some argue the campaign was ironic, tongue-in-cheek marketing, given Sweeney’s previous self-awareness about her public image—even poking fun at herself for being known as the “dumb blonde with big tits” when “she’s really brunette” on a popular Glamour UK clip—others are rendered uncomfortable with the extent of the joke. The soap, which featured a hole in the middle, was reportedly, by Sweeney, made out of fun and to encourage hygiene among young men, but many consumers have deemed the whole campaign harmful and antifeminist.

Similarly, other celebrities have come under fire for their campaigns. Sabrina Carpenter’s new Man’s Best Friend album cover, which featured her on her hands and knees in a black dress, touching the thigh of someone in a suit who pulls her by the hair, also set the internet ablaze. Like with Sweeney’s controversies, the internet was quick to call this marketing regressive, especially in the recent wake of Roe v. Wade being overturned in the U.S., leaving some consumers scared for women’s rights. Carpenter subsequently released an alternate Man’s Best Friend cover album due to the controversy, despite some fans still supporting her sexual expression, claiming it’s on brand with her hyperfeminine on-stage persona despite her music which regularly decentralises men and caters to her female fans, her most recent example being her song, Manchild.

Some fans of both Sweeney and Carpenter argue that the true problem lies in punishing women for their sexual autonomy, and as far as Carpenter’s Man’s Best Friend cover and Sweeney’s Dr. Squatch collaboration, this author has to agree. The viewer roots for the artists being sexualized but then punishes them for owning their sexuality. If Sweeney was acclaimed for her performance in Euphoria (much of which was heavily sexualized), then how can we punish her for using her same sexuality but to her own gain when it comes to Dr. Squatch? If Carpenter is celebrated for her hyperfeminine outfits, hair, and makeup, how can she be condemned for her album cover? The understandably tense discourse surrounding women’s rights in the U.S. has led to the media and public heavily policing female artists and their work, which both Sweeney and Carpenter have both fallen victim to.

While Sweeney and Carpenter are both aware of their public image and both usually poke fun at it—the American Eagle campaign is a different story. Instead of being tongue-in-cheek and subverting stereotypes, American Eagle simply posed Sydney Sweeney sexually in a national campaign and praised her genetics, shockingly growing its sales by approximately 24%, in spite of the controversy. Given Sweeney’s Eurocentric appearance, the campaign invoked conversations surrounding eugenics and white supremacy, questioning both the company’s and Sweeney’s political agendas, so while impactful financially, the campaign divided public opinion.

My previous article, How Wings Make the Brand: Victoria’s Secret and the Impact of Branding, explores the ways in which brands fail when they don’t adapt to the current social and political climate—this extends to advertising too. A great campaign relates to its target market, aiming for authenticity and originality to win consumer loyalty. American Eagle attempted to pay homage to an already controversial past campaign and posed Sweeney through the male gaze with highly questionable dialogue. Tongue-in-cheek, subversive marketing is nothing new, and often is done quite well, but in the case of American Eagle x Sydney Sweeney, I’m sorry to say the joke doesn’t quite land.

A 20-Something's Guide to Southeast Asia

Boarding my 12 hour flight to Hanoi, not knowing what was waiting for me (aside from the one week of accommodation I’d booked in a party hostel) was one of the most surreal moments of my life. Yes – I had travelled, as a 20 something girl I had been lucky to experience the world; family holidays to far flung places, not to mention the oh - so famous girls trips abroad as I got older. I had even dared in my early 20s to solo travel to neighboring countries, dipping my toe outside my comfort zone on my year abroad in Europe. But to travel alone – armed with nothing but my small backpack (which would become far too small before the trip was over) and my belief that I could accomplish this, was a much more intimidating task than I believed.

I had first started planning my trip a year before I left. It started off small as I hypothetically asked myself which part of the world would I want to see most? Those questions spread to when would I go? And for how long? And before I knew it my friends were amazed at the itinerary I had amassed in my notes app: pages and pages detailing where I’d stay and what I would do, even a map with a drawn out route for me to take, but remember – this was all hypothetical. That was until the turn of the year, when the clock rang to bring in 2025, I decided I want this year to be different and that my vision board full of travel would have to become a reality.

Hanoi, Vietnam

Landing in Hanoi, tired from my flight and being yet unable to navigate my way around, was a harsh beginning. Yet my arrival at my friendly hostel via Grab (a helpful taxi app popular in South East Asia) and the subsequent week proved to be worth my journey. Staying in Mad Monkey Hanoi and being only minutes away from the famous Pub Street was a highlight, as well as the coconut and egg coffees of Vietnam which quickly became a favourite.

I had decided before the start of my trip to travel for a total of 2 months, starting in north Vietnam and moving south before jumping to Cambodia and up to Laos, to North Thailand and down to the islands before ending my trip in Bali. I had resolved early on to stay around a week in each location, simultaneously afraid of burning myself out and/or losing interest in my travels.

Very much a city hub, Hanoi was great for shopping. Streets lined with lululemon and Kipling bags as well as hand woven and crochet bags lined the streets. If you could be careful enough to avoid the scooters, you could even catch a water puppet show in town, I recommend catching dinner at one of the famous Met restaurants in town before heading to Train Street to catch a showing of the train (be careful where you stand!) and then going to Pub Street for a few drinks.

Something to think about when you start out your travels is how to stay connected to home. A lot of travellers I met relied on Esims such as Airalo or Nomad which worked well for them, and while I initially tried this it didn’t work the best for me (some Esims may be incompatible with some phones or unreliable) so for the rest of my trip I decided to sim cards to make sure I was able to stay in touch. Many sim card providers can be found in 711s all throughout South East Asia, as well as in airports when you first arrive. If unsure I would recommend asking the front desk at your accommodation where you might be able to find a sim card and be sure to ask for the data only package to get a better deal!

While in Hanoi you could also check out Ha Long bay or Ninh Bihn, as well as look into doing the Ha Giang loop which can usually be booked through your hostel or accommodation.

Hoi an, Vietnam

Having loved my time in Hanoi I headed south to Hoi An. While a lot of sleeper buses are available to tourists and usually work well, to save time in my travels I opted to fly everywhere so my arrival to Hoi An actually came through Da Nang and from there I easily booked a taxi via Grab to take me to my hostel in Hoi An. Mad Monkey Hoi An was a great hostel which was super social and hosted nightly events making it easy to meet people.

Having stayed there for a week, I enjoyed a cooking class and a day trip to Ba Na Hills which houses the famous Golden Hands Bridge. I also had fun exploring Hoi An itself; from An Bang Beach to the lantern festivals wherein you can join in on the boats and release a lantern on the water to make a wish. As for the nightlife in Hoi An, expect to find fun at Tiger Tiger Bar and don’t be afraid to join in on the hostel bar crawls!

If you have time, an amazing souvenir would be some tailored clothes, I recommend Canali Clotheshop in town for the best quality and tailoring. Another thing to note about Hoi An is the high number of thefts or muggings via scooters and taxis, I was always advised by other travellers and my hostel to book through Grab to ensure my safety on nights out and throughout my visit.

After my time in Hoi An, I headed for Siem Reap. My trip only being 2 months long I opted to skip Ho Chi Mihn City. Another helpful hint I gathered from other travellers is that people tend to travel in Vietnam South to North as Ho Chi Mihn city is described as calm and as a good starting point before moving to Hoi An and Hanoi, both of which get increasingly busier.

Siem Reap, Cambodia

My arrival into Siem Reap initially was hectic, as a I booked a tuk-tuk to take me to my hostel without being aware of the city wide celebration of the Cambodian New Year – a tradition which lasts 3 days in the middle of April and which aims to wash away the negative of the past year through water. So, as I arrived into Siem Reap I was immediately hit with water guns from every angle as people of all ages celebrated this tradition, being able to join in the next night remains to be one of my favourite memories.

After its new year celebration Siem Reap proved to be a very calm and beautiful city. Its main attraction is the Angkor Wat Temple built in the early 12th century and immortalized on the Cambodian flag. Booked through my hostel (Mad Monkey Siem Reap) I was able to take a day tour visiting it as well as the surrounding temples. If allowed a little more time in Cambodia, I would make my way south to Phnom Penh to see the Killing Fields and then from there take the journey to Ko Rong Island in time for the Nestival celebration which falls on Saturdays. 

Luang Prabang & Vang Vieng, Laos

After a relaxing time in Siem Reap I was excited to explore Luang Prabang. Initially hesitant to travel to Loas because of reported methanol poisonings in that area, I decided to go because I was so eager to see that part of the world. My hostel (Once again Mad Monkey Luang Prabang) was amazing and organized a trip to Kuang Si waterfalls which was a dream come true!

I had also decided to travel to Vang Vieng in Laos that weekend (which was highly recommended to me by other travellers!) instead of spending the entire week purely in Luang Prabang. My hostel was great in arranging my travel and my accommodation there in Mad Monkey Vang Vieng. Vang Vieng in Laos is known for its beautiful mountains and its hot air balloons which I eagerly tried after my arrival! This can also be booked through my hostel and with the addition of tipsy tubing if you want to try that too!

My week in Laos was perfect and I wouldn’t change a thing! A few days in Luang Prabang was perfect to get to know the area and then Vang Vieng was a short train (only an hour or so) away. One important thing to note is if you plan to travel to Laos is that instead of Grab app (which works in: Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand excl. Koh Phanghan, and Indonesia) Laos has its own travel apps called Loca and Xanh SM. Another popular way to travel around if via tuk-tuks or vans that will usually pick up 8 – 12 people outside train stations and airports, and while this was useful, I was vary as a female solo traveller and leaned on the side of caution by always booking via an app.

Chiang Mai, Thailand

After a great time in Laos, I headed to Chiang Mai. Being so eager to explore Thailand and wanting a more relaxed vibe I stayed in The Yard Hostel which was a great addition to my trip. One of my main goals in Thailand was to visit an elephant sanctuary which I was also lucky enough to be able to book through my hostel. Elephant Nature Park was ethical in its treatment of their animals and was a great experience overall as we spent the day watching and following the elephants, learning about their life stories and daily lives.

Chiang Mai also has tipsy tubing experiences, water parks and a great night market which I definitely recommend trying out.

Phuket & the Islands, Thailand

After my time in Chiang Mai, I headed straight to the south to Phuket. Given more time Bangkok would be a great stop for a few days where you can explore Chatuchak Market and stay in hostels like Mad Monkey Bangkok or The Yard Hostel Bangkok.

Phuket proved to be beautiful with its beaches and old town where you could relax and shop for days. I spent a couple days exploring here before I decided to fly to Koh Samui, an island just off the coast of Thailand. Koh Samui was one of my favourite parts of my trip, I stayed in SocialTel Hostel which was near the centre and close to the beach bars like Ark Bar which hosted nightly fire shows, as well as being close to Sound Club which was a great spot for nightlife. SocialTel Hostel was also close to Samui Central, a mall which hosted day and night markets which lots of souvenirs and great food.

If inclined, you could also take a short ferry to Ko Tao to explore another island, or Koh Phi Phi which lives on the other side of Phuket. Samui is also a popular place to stay during the Full Moon Party celebrations on Koh Phanghan which happens monthly. Only a thirty minute ferry from Haad Rin pier in Koh Phanghan, Koh Samui is the perfect place to stay if you don’t want to stay on the Full Moon Party island itself. Transport can usually be booked through your accommodation, and you’ll be dropped off only a five minute walk away from Haad Rin beach where the party happens on Koh Phanghan.

One thing to note is that a lot of thefts usually happen during the Full Moon Party so be sure to be aware of your belongings and to maybe bring a spare along on your trip. I took out a certain amount of cash as well as one my bank cards and left my ID and other cards at home, I recommend doing the same.

Bali, Indonesia

After my time in Koh Samui I travelled to Bali, Indonesia. Had I had more time I might have gone from the Islands in south Thailand to Singapore and Malaysia for a few days but I enjoyed my time in Koh Samui so much I stayed 2 weeks instead of the allotted on 1 and thus headed straight to Bali. I recommend staying in Ubud and exploring the centre where you can see a selection of waterfalls and monkey forests. I spent a few days staying in the Arya Wellness Retreat, a female only hostel which offers complimentary daily massages as well as manicures and pedicures. You can also visit the Water Temple and Ubud Temple in the town centre – a perfect way to finish off your trip!

Some of the best parts of my trip have been meeting other travellers in hostels or bars and immediately bonding over our trips and often times overlapping journeys. A great tip I picked up is to book your accommodation through your current accommodation. For example, Mad Monkey hostels had a discount if you book your stay directly through their reception, and they also had an app which allows you to collect points and get perks as you make your way through your trip. They also have passes for 30 days, 60 days, and 90 days which can be helpful if you know your route and duration of travel.

Somehow, boarding my 12 hour flight back I was both relieved that I would be going home, and sad that my adventure was over. But, if like me you want to explore the world but you’re not sure exactly where to start, I hope this guide has given you enough information (and hopefully inspiration) to take the leap for yourself.